Kul — The Most Mysterious Village in Uzbekistan

I first stumbled upon this village in 2020. A picturesque place in the highlands, with pristine air and unusual architecture, it immediately struck me. But what surprised me even more was the absence of people on the streets. I was told that the arrival of a stranger had consequences: villagers would retreat into their homes, while women were not permitted to go out without the company of elder brothers, their father, or their husband. I began returning every year, getting to know the people, their history and traditions, and capturing them in photos and videos. Over time, the outsider became a familiar photographer, a friend, and finally one of their own.

The settlement of Kul (meaning “Lake”) was founded over three thousand years ago in the highest part of Uzbekistan, the Hissar Range, at an altitude of 2,800 meters. According to one legend, its people are direct descendants of Alexander the Great’s army; another claims their ancestors fled here during Genghis Khan’s campaigns. Today, about 1,500 people, or 300 families, live here — making it the most isolated village in all of Uzbekistan. Their everyday language is Tajik. Locals say that once, a lake lay here — hence the name — while the village itself was higher in the mountains. But when the lake dried up, people moved down to a warmer valley.

Life in Kul begins at dawn. First, the ground around the house is sprinkled with water to settle the dust. Then the cows are milked and sent out for their daily grazing. As in neighboring Gilan (12 km away), most houses are two-storied: the first floor is for livestock, the second for living. Such architecture cannot be found anywhere else in Central Asia. Poplar wood is used for the walls of new houses, while mountain stone — abundant and cheap — serves as the foundation and often for the entire first floor. Because of the harsh Hissar winters, houses are built with low ceilings and small rooms so they can be heated quickly.

Sadly, no centuries-old houses remain: the villagers themselves dismantled them — a decision they now deeply regret. Inside, the furnishings are minimal — mostly chests. Each room traditionally has four kurpacha (handmade mattresses), sewn by women and stuffed with wool or beaten cotton. These are laid out along the walls around the dastarkhan (tablecloth for meals). Kul is a deeply religious community. Alcohol and cigarettes are not sold here — both considered haram (a sin). Birthdays are not celebrated, nor are lavish weddings held: the groom simply comes to the bride’s house and takes her away, the bride price being small. One of the most striking traditions is the tumar amulet, worn from birth to ward off the evil eye. Made by a mother or grandmother, it must first be bitten with her teeth before being placed on the child. At a certain age, the amulet is removed.

For nine months of the year (excluding winter), villagers work without pause — including weekends. They herd cattle, cut hay, grow and harvest wheat and potatoes, tend orchards planted by their ancestors on the slopes, gather wood and dried dung for heating, and build new houses for young couples or extensions to existing ones. There is no distinction between men’s and women’s work — everything is done together, from eight in the morning until sunset. Kul has no police station, only a local officer. Recently, however, a hospital was built; before that, women had to travel to neighboring villages to give birth. There is also a school. For transportation, people rely mostly on donkeys, motorcycles, or old Soviet Nivas.

In recent years, tourists have started arriving more often: the road to Uzbekistan’s highest peak, Hazrat Sultan (4,643 m), runs nearby. The mountain has become a popular destination in recent years, and villagers are slowly adjusting to the influx of outsiders. The peak is named after the great philosopher, Islamic preacher, and Sufi poet Khoja Ahmad Yasawi (1103–1166), known as Hazrat Sultan. A legend tied to this summit only deepens its aura of myth.