Gentleman: Trends in Modern Men's Fashion

Gentleman: Trends in Modern Men's Fashion
Vincent Cassel for Arena Homme+ magazine, photo by Arnaud Lajeunie

FASHION, OH FASHION!

Everything has become mixed up in the house... no, not the Oblonskys' house, but the house of fashion! Not mixed up, but rather re-mixed — the roles of gender in fashion are in flux, with both ladies and gentlemen now embracing a more gender-neutral wardrobe.

Fashion designers, too, have plunged into the whirlpool of transformation, as evidenced by collections where elements of both male and female attire are blended. The format of the presentations has also evolved.

Fashion enthusiasts are becoming increasingly inventive in self-expression, while contemporary designers encourage them even further with the ever more extravagant pieces they create.

A trend in modern society and fashion is the rise of "new masculinity" — a rethinking of traditional ideas about what it means to be a man. "New masculinity" gradually dissolves the rigid concept of male strength and is seen in the fashion world as something of a revelation.

Fashion, if not judged critically, easily forgets the trends of past years. Though, there are hardly any truly new styles, mostly, they are forgotten old ones.

Gentleman: Trends in Modern Men's Fashion
Bill Skarsgård for Arena Homme+ magazine, photo by Oliver Hadlee Pearch

Let us recall the 18th century, when fashionable men wore corsets (to emphasize a straight back and a slim waist) and tight breeches (to highlight beautiful legs), shoes made of black or gray leather, but a size smaller (large feet were reserved for the common folk). Shoes also featured glossy heels matching the color of the clothing — black, pink, or red — with removable buckles adorned with rhinestones and precious stones.

Fashionable men and women also had beautiful accessories, such as gold snuffboxes, inlaid with gemstones or mosaics, with hidden compartments for love letters, lorgnettes (even with plain glass), but richly decorated.

Gentleman: Trends in Modern Men's Fashion
Portrait of King Louis XIV, 1701

Men were expected to wear wigs: a simple, smooth cap, with braids, square-shaped, "brigadier style" (with a bow), or with a little purse (long hair hidden in a small bag of black taffeta).

Another important element of 18th-century men's style was makeup, which emphasized one's social standing. It was considered inappropriate for an aristocrat to appear in society without it. White powder was applied to the face, eyebrows were shaped, cheeks were rouged, and beauty patches were affixed.

A revolution in fashion occurred in 19th-century England. The trend toward a more democratic men's suit emerged, which, in the context of the industrial revolution, became the attire of choice for the fashionable and aristocratic gentlemen of the time. Aristocrats of that period engaged in sports, hunting, participated in wars, and worked in agriculture, all of which required a departure from old traditional forms of dress. Public opinion was summed up in the phrase: "Modern men dress; they do not adorn themselves". Thus, the trend for masculine fashion began.

TO STAND OUT, SIMPLY STOP CARING ABOUT THE OPINIONS OF OTHERS

In today's world, men's fashion does not take the easy route. On one hand, while pushing the "new masculinity" trend, modern designers increasingly draw from women's fashion, incorporating traditionally feminine details such as pink skirts, flowers, scarves, and lace.

Men's collections often feature models strutting in laughable outfits: grandfathers' straw hats, child-sized scarves with matching patterns, cropped sweaters barely covering the belly button, all paired with torn jeans.

Contemporary designers believe masculinity is defined by strength and success. Therefore, in their view, true strength must be expressed through a man's fragility and sensitivity. True luxury, they argue, lies in the pursuit of a way to transcend the contrasts and contradictions between men and women.

But what do we actually see when we step outside? Well, ordinary men do not wear these runway pieces with a feminine twist.

Most of them are quite conservative in their clothing choices, regardless of their profession or economic status. Men may prefer to experiment and be creative in their careers, but not in their style of dress.

According to surveys conducted in Europe and America, 78% of women believe that one of the most attractive qualities a man can exhibit in terms of fashion is wearing a perfectly fitted suit.