The Village of Gilan: Where Time Stands Still

Gilan is the most incredible place on earth for me. The kind and welcoming people guard traditions, values, and legends passed down through millennia. Its breathtaking nature, the atmosphere of the Gissar Mountains, unique architecture, pure air, and natural food leave no one indifferent. For photographers, artists, and dreamers, Gilan is paradise on earth. I always leave a piece of my heart there.

High in the embrace of the Gissar Mountains, at an altitude of 2,800 meters, lies Gilan, one of Uzbekistan's most extraordinary and isolated villages. Nestled in the Kitab district of the Kashkadarya region, Gilan perches 80 kilometers from Shakhrisabz, just a stone's throw from the Tajik border. Reaching this remote haven is a journey in itself, winding along a dirt road through the scenic Gissar Pass, surrounded by peaks that soar over 4,000 meters.

Upon arrival, it feels as if you've traveled back in time. Gilan's architecture is unlike anything found in Uzbekistan, reminiscent instead of the high-altitude settlements of Tibet and Nepal. Here, the houses are built with their second floors serving as living spaces, while the first floors are reserved for livestock. The narrow, labyrinthine streets and serene daily life give visitors the sense that time has stopped, and the world moves at a different rhythm.

Boasting a population of just over five thousand, Gilan's residents take immense pride in their way of life, their health, and their heritage. Remarkably, during the COVID-19 pandemic, not a single case was reported in this secluded village. Some believe that the people of Gilan are descendants of Alexander the Great's soldiers, a claim supported by their striking green eyes and rich, ancient culture. Here, Tajik and Uzbek flow effortlessly between generations, preserving the village's linguistic tapestry.

Life in Gilan is sustained by the purity of the mountain air and the bounty of natural foods. The average life expectancy here is an astonishing 93 years, with some centenarians still thriving, living active and vibrant lives. The locals avoid excess weight, navigating the rugged landscape on Soviet-era motorcycles, Niva SUVs, and the most sustainable transport of all — donkeys.

The terrain surrounding Gilan is steep and challenging, offering little in the way of flat land. Yet, the people have adapted, cultivating potato fields on slopes as sharp as 40 degrees. These potatoes are famed throughout Uzbekistan, forming a cornerstone of local cuisine — even making their way into desserts. Using nothing more than a simple plow drawn by oxen or donkeys, farmers tend to their crops with centuries-old techniques. In addition to the potato fields, the village boasts lush orchards and an intricate irrigation system that runs for miles along the mountainside.

One of the village's gems is its historic mill, a testament to Gilan's deep-rooted connection to its past. Here, a modern Chinese mill sits alongside an ancient one that has been passed down through generations. The traditional mill produces a coarse flour that locals treasure, and the bread baked from it has a distinct, hearty flavor. The wheat used to make this flour is grown on the steep mountainsides that cradle the village.

Despite its isolation, Gilan has not been left entirely untouched by modernity. Electricity powers the village, and water is sourced from the crystalline mountain springs. Cooking is done using natural gas, delivered from the valley below, while homes are warmed in winter by firewood and kyzak — dried manure, a resource as old as the mountains themselves.

The culture in Gilan is as unique as its landscape. The children of the village don't grow up with the usual fairy tales. Instead, they listen in awe to stories of legendary heroes who could lift immense stones and travel on donkeys across treacherous mountain passes. The weight of history is keenly felt here, especially when one remembers that during World War II, 350 men from Gilan went off to fight, with many never returning.

Gilan is more than just a village. It is a place where the harmony between history, nature, and human spirit is palpable in every breeze that sweeps down the mountain. It is a treasure trove of Uzbekistan's traditions and cultural heritage, offering travelers a glimpse into a way of life that has remained largely unchanged for centuries. To visit Gilan is to step into a world where time stands still, where the mountains tell stories as old as the earth itself, and where every moment is a brushstroke on the canvas of history.